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Green Iguana

All this information is provided by me and a book I call my bible 'Iguanas for Dummies'

 
General & Health  Information

General Information
Green Iguanas commonly sold in the U.S.A. at an alarming rate to the point that there is over thousands in rescues and thrown out into the streets to die.Iguanas with the proper care can live up to 30 years and can reach 7 feet long and some can get up to 8 feet. Iguanas are strictly Vegetarians and are tree dwelling animals(they live in the canopy). Iguanas are territorial animals and require all of space and time. These wonderful creatures are a lifetime commitment.

Iguana Colors
Mexico:Very long dorsal crests and longer snouts. Sexually mature males and females have brownish-rusty orange arms and legs under a predominantly green body. Some have rostral horns or nubs.
Central America:Pale green, with silvery-light blue-white heads(when excited or content)and bold brown-black belly stripes. Sexually mature iguanas gerally display varying amounts of orange year round, especially the dominant males.Some iguanas may have a network of fine black lines on thier bodies, which is actually their skin color showing between their scals. Some may have horns or nubs.
South America:Blue color is retained in the skin of many of these iguanas. The blue iguanas' heads are shaped a bit differently, with a shorter snout and slightly convex hump between the nostrils and eye area on top of the face(as opposed to the flat head of the Mexican and Central American iguanas). Many are striking due to their deep reddish eyes, black lacing around the scales on their face, and black skin and scales on their eyelids and dewlaps.The dorsal crests are shorter, and sexually mature lizards rarely display the orange coloring of their Central American cousins.

Anatomy
Here is a link to better describe it:
http://www.greenigsociety.org/glossary.htm

REMINDER:Not all vets are HERP friendly you should find one before picking up your ig.

Common Injuries
Abscesses:These are pockets of infection containing solid pus. This commonly occurs as a result of an injury to the tail, toes, necks, and legs, this commonly happens when you keep two iguanas together. Rostral abscesses occur when the iguana keeps rubbing on the screen of the cage or keeps hitting it on a hard surface.
Treatment:See a vet asap to get antibiotics first and then if that doesn't work the abscess would have to removed surgically.
Claws - Broken or Torn Off:When walking , climbing, or jumping they may jerk their toes instead of dislodging them, resulting in a broken toe, a ripped out claw, or both.
Treatment:Sometimes the claw may stll be attached to the fingertip by the underlying fleshy structure or a tiny shred of skin. At this point it would be best to remove the claw. If it just a tiny shred of tissue is holding the claw on, you can quickly pull it off; otherwise, you should seek vet to cut it off. If the claw is gone then dip the toe tip in bedadine and soak for several minutes. Top the tip with neosporn.
Dry Gangrrene of Tails and Toes:A bad injury can cause this.
Treatment:Amputation!
Injured Tail:When the tail has been caught or crushed in something.
Treatment:Starting at the end of the tail, may begin to die due to an infection Known as dry gangrene. The tail turns dark brown or black, becomes very hard and brittle, shrinks inward, and collapes in on itself. Sometimes the injury or infection may occur toward the middle of the tail, turning mushy, even oozy. As the infection spreads, the blood and nerve supply are disrupted in this area, causing the end of the tail to start dying; this infected tail must be dealt with by your vet, usually by amputation, long before it get to the point of the end dying and becoming brittle.
Injured Toes:Injuries to toes are due to a crush or twist trauma. The injured toe may look healthy, green, and filled out, but it may flop around uncontrollably when the iguana moves it. The toe may start turning black, brittle, or hard.
Treatment:The toe should be amputated, both to prevent the spread of any infection and to eliminate the risk of the toe being caught in something and literally ripped off. 
Tail Drop:Tails can and will drop for no reason.
Treatment:1.Soak the iguana in warm, chest-deep water to which you've added enough bedadine to make the water the color of medium-dark tea(I more so go for darker).  2. Leave the iguana in the tub for 15-20 minutes, refreshing the warm water if necessary. 3. Remove the iguana from the tub and flush the wound with diluted bedadine. 4. At night, put neospoorin on the stump. 5. Repeat this for a week until its healing over.

Diseases
Black Spots:This is one of two things either a fungus(Typically have a furry look but not feel to them and usually appear in circular patches, With atleast two or three patches clustered together.) or a bacterial infection.
Treatment:See a vet immediately!
Hypercalcemia: Is caused by a high level of calcium in their blood.
Treatment: With out treatment there are serious side effects.
Hypervitaminosis: Is caused by excess of administration or absorbtion of vitamins.
Treatment: This can only be dianosed at the vets so its important to keep going to your vets for check ups.
Kidney Failure: Built up of protein. Signs include: weight loss despite eating, anorexia, lethargic, swollen or distended abdomen, frequent drinking or voiding, a grossly swollen neck and/or dewlap.
Treatment: Seek immediate medical attention!


I am working on more so stay tuned!
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General Care Sheet

Natural Range: Found in much of Latin America

Natural Diet: Dark leafy greens, vegetables, and fruit

Captive Diet: Collard, mustard, turnip, and dandelion greens. Green beans, snow peas, sugar peas, broccoli, carrots, sweet potatoes, butternut squash, and corn. Strawberries, blueberries, raspberries, banana, mango, grapes, apples, and tomatoes are good fruits for them.  *Keep fruits to a small portion size to prevent diarrhea. For more information on their diet click HERE

Average Size: On average they will reach 5 foot long but many are capable of reaching 6 foot plus.

Lighting:  UV lighting is required for these animals. (Repti-Sun 5.0 is recommended)

Temperature: Ambient: 85F Basking: 90F

Humidity: 60% but when in shed 75%

Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallon for babies but they quickly grow out of so it highly recommend to use a 75 gallon for babies. Adult on the other hand require more space so you can use one of three things: Custom build a cage(the cage should be 6ft long X 30in wide X 6ft tall), buy a custom cage, or use a spare bedroom.

Diet Chart

 
Myths & Facts

Myths

Facts

Iguanas eat crickets, dog and cat food, chicken, eggs, and yogart.

Animal protein will eventually kill an iguana.

Iguanas eat lettuce.
Lettuce is not a nutritional food for iguanas.
Iguanas need to eat gravel to help them digest their food.
Eating gravel can cause serious medical problems.
Iguanas can be kept in a 10 gallon aquarium.
During the first year, a 55 gallon aquarium is the minimum size needed.
Iguanas only grow as big as their cage.
Iguanas are not like fish. They grow quickly, and an adult iguana needs a cage that is 8ft. L X 4ft. W X 6ft. H.
Hot Rocks can be used to keep iguanas warm.
These rocks can malfunction and cause fatal burns to an iguana.
Iguanas do not need special lighting.
Iguanas must have access UVA and UVB light.
Iguanas only need to see the vet when there is a serious problem.
Iguanas need annual check-ups and lab tests. 
Iguanas are stupid.
They are smart enough to be potty trained, learn tricks, and indentify people and animals.
Iguanas make great pets for kids.
Iguanas are very hard and expensive to care for. They require attention and ideal surroundings. Some iguanas can be aggressive, making them hard for a child to hold. Large iguanas can leave some nasty injuries.

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